April 17, 2010
I am currently on the bus to Jaipur to actually start my ISP. I have the AC blowing on my face and I couldn’t be happier.
This past week was sort of a whirlwind. I was crashing in a flat in Lajpat Nagar with Amanda, Francesca, Kat, Kyle, Katie, Kenzie, and Joan. It was so much fun living with them but I’m glad I left when I did… it was starting to turn into a sorority house.
A few days ago I met with an elephant owner and his driver in Delhi for my project. It was truly the most depressing sight ever. The elephants were illegally tied up to cement pillars under a high way where they stay when they are not being used in religious or wedding ceremonies. They were bathed in a near by marsh field flooded by leaking pipes and soiled water. I saw the elephant driver (age 25 and half my size) punch one of the elephants in the eye repeatedly when she was moving “too slow.” When I got closer I saw that her eye was discolored and looked almost as if it was a blind eye. It was so painful that I only stayed for two hours when I was supposed to stay for three days. I saw what I needed to see.
I’m excited to be traveling on my own now. I feel like so many things have been happening to other students on ISP and its finally time for me to experience India on my own. I’m truly a free bird right now with everything in a backpack on my back.
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
April 13, 2010
April 13, 2010
R.I.P Angel the best cat ever to live. My first pet and my favorite. I’ll love you forever, Angel bear.
R.I.P Angel the best cat ever to live. My first pet and my favorite. I’ll love you forever, Angel bear.
April 6, 2010
April 6, 2010
Tonight is my last night in my home stay. Ayshea left for Hydrabad this afternoon so I am alone for the night. I’m actually really sad; my home stay experience was more than I could ask for. Sunita-ji is the sweetest woman and so laid back which made it really easy to live with her. Not to mention she was a fabulous cook! I had some good times in this house and I definitely want to stay in touch with her. She lives alone and it pains me to imagine her eating alone night after night. I want to write to her at least once a month for sure.
ISP has officially started… I can’t believe it. I only have one more month left in India, it’s all happening way too fast. Life is funny, sometimes it seems so slow and then when you look away for one second it all whizzes by. Tomorrow I move into a hotel with Christina, Grace, and Anne for three nights in Para Ganj. Leaving the home stay feels like leaving for college all over again. I am going to have to take care of myself, remember to feed myself, drink water…. I feel like if I survive this I can survive anything life throws at me.
Tonight is my last night in my home stay. Ayshea left for Hydrabad this afternoon so I am alone for the night. I’m actually really sad; my home stay experience was more than I could ask for. Sunita-ji is the sweetest woman and so laid back which made it really easy to live with her. Not to mention she was a fabulous cook! I had some good times in this house and I definitely want to stay in touch with her. She lives alone and it pains me to imagine her eating alone night after night. I want to write to her at least once a month for sure.
ISP has officially started… I can’t believe it. I only have one more month left in India, it’s all happening way too fast. Life is funny, sometimes it seems so slow and then when you look away for one second it all whizzes by. Tomorrow I move into a hotel with Christina, Grace, and Anne for three nights in Para Ganj. Leaving the home stay feels like leaving for college all over again. I am going to have to take care of myself, remember to feed myself, drink water…. I feel like if I survive this I can survive anything life throws at me.
March 19, 2010
3/19/2010
I can’t believe it is already half way through March. Life is going so fast right now!
Calcutta (now called Kolkata) was so much fun. The British influence was much more in your face in here than anywhere I have been. Kolkata is mostly Bengali populated so the food we ate was Bengali which meant TONS of seafood. We went to dinner at this one restaurant which had amazing fresh seafood, maybe the best I have ever had. The crab just melted in your mouth and the sauces used were so rich in flavor and spice. I used to be such a spice baby but after living in India I feel like I can eat anything.
The Hotel we stayed in in Kolkata was called Hotel Fairlawn. It was the most flamboyant, kitche, fabulous I have ever stayed in. It was owned by a 90-year-old woman who is still feisty as ever. There was not an inch of bare wall because the entire hotel was covered with photographs, articles, artifacts, and art. It was sort of living in a grandmother’s house with everything plastered to the wall except there were no plastic coverings on the sofas.
Storm-ji took us around to St. Paul’s Cathedral, Park Street Cemetery, and the Victoria Memorial. It was definitely interesting to see the British institutions plopped down in India. It was as if we were in an English city rather than an Indian one. The cemetery was so eerie to walk through because all the tombs (all British) were of people who died who were my age. They were all young people coming to India to work for the East Indian Company who just couldn’t handle the disease and bacteria. A much as I felt bad for them, part of me felt like it was their karma to die in India. They just expected to move to India and become rich from exploiting all f her resources for the benefit of the British economy. They attempted to conquer India but in the end it was India who conquered them.
The Victoria Memorial was probably one of my favorite places in Kolkata. It was a museum full of paintings and photographs of India done of the British in the 1750’s- 1850’s. It was so cool to see how much India has changed and developed since then. They had illustrations of lush green land where my school is which is now in the middle of a bustling city full of roads and cement.
Right now I’m on the plane back to Delhi. I am sort of over Delhi right now. After seeing places like Kolkata, Rishikesh, Bandhavgarh, and Orissa it just makes me want to explore India even more. There is so much to see and I am only here for such a short period of time. I can’t wait until ISP where I’ll be in Jaipur and then Bandhavgarh on my own. Although I am nervous to travel alone, I’m even more excited to get my feet wet.
I can’t believe it is already half way through March. Life is going so fast right now!
Calcutta (now called Kolkata) was so much fun. The British influence was much more in your face in here than anywhere I have been. Kolkata is mostly Bengali populated so the food we ate was Bengali which meant TONS of seafood. We went to dinner at this one restaurant which had amazing fresh seafood, maybe the best I have ever had. The crab just melted in your mouth and the sauces used were so rich in flavor and spice. I used to be such a spice baby but after living in India I feel like I can eat anything.
The Hotel we stayed in in Kolkata was called Hotel Fairlawn. It was the most flamboyant, kitche, fabulous I have ever stayed in. It was owned by a 90-year-old woman who is still feisty as ever. There was not an inch of bare wall because the entire hotel was covered with photographs, articles, artifacts, and art. It was sort of living in a grandmother’s house with everything plastered to the wall except there were no plastic coverings on the sofas.
Storm-ji took us around to St. Paul’s Cathedral, Park Street Cemetery, and the Victoria Memorial. It was definitely interesting to see the British institutions plopped down in India. It was as if we were in an English city rather than an Indian one. The cemetery was so eerie to walk through because all the tombs (all British) were of people who died who were my age. They were all young people coming to India to work for the East Indian Company who just couldn’t handle the disease and bacteria. A much as I felt bad for them, part of me felt like it was their karma to die in India. They just expected to move to India and become rich from exploiting all f her resources for the benefit of the British economy. They attempted to conquer India but in the end it was India who conquered them.
The Victoria Memorial was probably one of my favorite places in Kolkata. It was a museum full of paintings and photographs of India done of the British in the 1750’s- 1850’s. It was so cool to see how much India has changed and developed since then. They had illustrations of lush green land where my school is which is now in the middle of a bustling city full of roads and cement.
Right now I’m on the plane back to Delhi. I am sort of over Delhi right now. After seeing places like Kolkata, Rishikesh, Bandhavgarh, and Orissa it just makes me want to explore India even more. There is so much to see and I am only here for such a short period of time. I can’t wait until ISP where I’ll be in Jaipur and then Bandhavgarh on my own. Although I am nervous to travel alone, I’m even more excited to get my feet wet.
March 18, 2010
3/18/2010
Who ever said this Calcutta excursion was going to be stressful couldn’t have been farther than the truth. I’m on vacation right now.
Today we slept in and then had a delicious breakfast at the hotel. We went to a small paining village afterward which was incredible. The entire village painted all over their walls and all of the houses were covered in paintings and color. Every man kept bringing me to their house and showing me their hand painted art which was all so detailed and beautiful. It was incredible to see the young children paint the paintings I was buying right in front of my eyes. It made me feel good that I was supporting not only the arts but their entire village. I would have bought from each family if I could afford it but sadly money doesn’t grow on trees as I am quickly finding out.
South India is completely different than North India in every possible way. South India is exactly what I imagined India to be before I came here… jungles, rural villages, monkeys… everything here moves at a much slower pace. It is almost like a time warp. Sometimes I forget not everyone lives in a city and has access to electricity or let alone running water. Visiting South India has definitely been a humbling experience so far.
Who ever said this Calcutta excursion was going to be stressful couldn’t have been farther than the truth. I’m on vacation right now.
Today we slept in and then had a delicious breakfast at the hotel. We went to a small paining village afterward which was incredible. The entire village painted all over their walls and all of the houses were covered in paintings and color. Every man kept bringing me to their house and showing me their hand painted art which was all so detailed and beautiful. It was incredible to see the young children paint the paintings I was buying right in front of my eyes. It made me feel good that I was supporting not only the arts but their entire village. I would have bought from each family if I could afford it but sadly money doesn’t grow on trees as I am quickly finding out.
South India is completely different than North India in every possible way. South India is exactly what I imagined India to be before I came here… jungles, rural villages, monkeys… everything here moves at a much slower pace. It is almost like a time warp. Sometimes I forget not everyone lives in a city and has access to electricity or let alone running water. Visiting South India has definitely been a humbling experience so far.
March 17, 2010
3/17/2010
Happy Saint Patrick’s Day!
Yersterday we visited the Yogini Temple in Bhubaneshwar. The temple itself was in the shape of an open courtyard in circle form with little yoginis (goddesses) carved into the walls (no ceiling) and a small dance pavilion in the middle. It was so cool to see a temple entirely dedicated to goddesses see the female essence being worshiped. Apparently it used to be mainly a tantric practice to worship these temples thus the temples being in really remote places.
After the Yogini Temple we went to Dhauli to see the Ashoka edicts where Emperor Ashoka declared he was going to rule his kingdom with morality. The inscriptions themselves were from 2nd century BC- SO OLD!! All the architecture in India is so old and so beautiful. It is kind of sad that there is no patronage anymore because all the architecture commissioned by royalty is so incredible and exquisitely detailed. But I guess democracy has its pros as well…
At night Kat, Amber, Darren, and I went to the beach and stood in the water. The water was so warm I just wanted to swim in it all night. It kind of made me homesick to be by the ocean and smell the salty air. (side note: power just went out. Pretty sure this occurs about three times a day no matter if you are in a youth hostel or a 5-star hotel. The other night the power went out while I was eating with my home stay family and we just continued eating…in the dark… like nothing happened. Just a great example of how India teaches you to be patient and flexible. I’d rather have this happen than an electrical fire… also a common occurrence.) Anyway, you could definitely tell the ocean was an Indian ocean because all along the shore was piles and piles of trash. It is so sad how this country could be so beautiful but there is so much trash everywhere that it just distracts the eye from her natural beauty.
Today we went back to Bubaneshwar to see a handful of Hindu Temples. Don’t get me wrong, I love learning about the architecture but once you have seen ten Hindu Temples, they all start blending together. I think I am just on temple overload right now. When we were driving back from temple hopping, the main road was closed so we were forced to take the back roads through the villages. It was so interesting to see actually village life- such a different way of living. Although their way of life was much simpler than ours, they definitely have a good business head- They were charging every car that came through ten rupees about every kilometer, making hundreds of dollars off of us. We had no choice but to pay because they would just stand in front of the car until you did. I’ve realized that this country runs off of bribes alone.
Happy Saint Patrick’s Day!
Yersterday we visited the Yogini Temple in Bhubaneshwar. The temple itself was in the shape of an open courtyard in circle form with little yoginis (goddesses) carved into the walls (no ceiling) and a small dance pavilion in the middle. It was so cool to see a temple entirely dedicated to goddesses see the female essence being worshiped. Apparently it used to be mainly a tantric practice to worship these temples thus the temples being in really remote places.
After the Yogini Temple we went to Dhauli to see the Ashoka edicts where Emperor Ashoka declared he was going to rule his kingdom with morality. The inscriptions themselves were from 2nd century BC- SO OLD!! All the architecture in India is so old and so beautiful. It is kind of sad that there is no patronage anymore because all the architecture commissioned by royalty is so incredible and exquisitely detailed. But I guess democracy has its pros as well…
At night Kat, Amber, Darren, and I went to the beach and stood in the water. The water was so warm I just wanted to swim in it all night. It kind of made me homesick to be by the ocean and smell the salty air. (side note: power just went out. Pretty sure this occurs about three times a day no matter if you are in a youth hostel or a 5-star hotel. The other night the power went out while I was eating with my home stay family and we just continued eating…in the dark… like nothing happened. Just a great example of how India teaches you to be patient and flexible. I’d rather have this happen than an electrical fire… also a common occurrence.) Anyway, you could definitely tell the ocean was an Indian ocean because all along the shore was piles and piles of trash. It is so sad how this country could be so beautiful but there is so much trash everywhere that it just distracts the eye from her natural beauty.
Today we went back to Bubaneshwar to see a handful of Hindu Temples. Don’t get me wrong, I love learning about the architecture but once you have seen ten Hindu Temples, they all start blending together. I think I am just on temple overload right now. When we were driving back from temple hopping, the main road was closed so we were forced to take the back roads through the villages. It was so interesting to see actually village life- such a different way of living. Although their way of life was much simpler than ours, they definitely have a good business head- They were charging every car that came through ten rupees about every kilometer, making hundreds of dollars off of us. We had no choice but to pay because they would just stand in front of the car until you did. I’ve realized that this country runs off of bribes alone.
March 16, 2010
3/16/2010
This morning we left for our group excursions. My group is going to Orissa and Calcutta to study art history. I am currently in Puri sitting on my hotel’s balcony overlooking the Great Bay of Bengal. There are palm trees to my left and cows to my right… Sort of like Florida mixed with India. I could sit here forever.
This morning we left for our group excursions. My group is going to Orissa and Calcutta to study art history. I am currently in Puri sitting on my hotel’s balcony overlooking the Great Bay of Bengal. There are palm trees to my left and cows to my right… Sort of like Florida mixed with India. I could sit here forever.
Monday, April 5, 2010
March 14, 2010
I am currently in Rishikesh and never want to leave. This is the most magical place and exactly what I imagined India to be. This whole weekend has been such an adventure, let me start from the beginning….
So we caught a Grace, Darren, Austin, Ben, Katie, Joan, Hayley, Kyle, Ayshea and I all caught a bus at 9 pm on Friday from Delhi heading to Rishikesh. Of course India being India the bus was really sketchy and overcrowded but we nursed some wine on the way so the ride wasn’t too bad. The ride seemed to take forever and I’m pretty sure we crashed into a few things along the way (once again, I didn’t seem to mind thanks to the wine). At around 4 in the morning the bus stopped in Haridwar (about 45 minutes outside of Rishikesh) and orders everyone to get off. They explain that since this weekend is a major holiday (Kumela- people come to dunk themselves in the Ganga River to wash away their sins from the past 12 years and the next 12, happens about every 12 years and we just happened to be here for it) and all the roads are closed. So what do ten American students do? Drink some more wine and catch rickshaws heading to Rishikesh. If anything I’ve learned so far in India it’s to be patient and flexible. So no problemo, we rode to Rishikesh crammed into two rickshaws singing Grateful Dead and Sublime songs along the way. We finally found our hotel after asking directions about 20 times (we didn’t know the hotel name except we knew it had the word ‘castle’ in it..) and passed out until 11 the next morning.
When we woke up we all had breakfast at the German Bakery looking across the Ganga River. It was so amazing to just chill by ourselves and soak in India on our own time. The entire area was filled with Sadhus and people from all over the world on a ‘spiritual journey’ (tons of Israelis not surprisingly). Good energy was floating all around.
Grace and I went crystal shopping and dunked everything we bought in the Ganga- so epic. Just being on the Ganga was so incredible. It was so magical to watch thousands of people- both Indian and foreign- wash themselves in what is considered to be the holiest river in the world. The fact that I was touching the same river that has been around for thousands and thousands of years really had a powerful effect on me. If I have ever felt such real strong energy it was definitely from that river.
The next day we went water rafting on the Ganga with an Israeli couple we picked up along the way and a few local rafting guys (who were quite good-looking I must admit). The rapids were a level 3 so it was a little intense but overall it was quite pleasant. At one point the guide told us to jump out of the raft and just float along the river. Disregarding the lecture we were given from Dr. Storm about how not to touch the river, we submerged ourselves and floated leisurely down the river, something I will never forget, let alone regret. I can’t even describe the feeling of being carried by the Ganga. I now know why Rishikesh is just a spiritual place for people; it just oozes a beautiful aura. I wanted to stay forever.
After river rafting we walked around and did a little shopping. There were so many Israelis that some of the signs were in Hebrew, no lie. It made me miss Israel so much. Just being in India makes me miss Israel. Here I definitely feel like the “other.” Sometimes I even ask myself what I’m doing here especially since I have no ties to this country- it’s all just pure interest. With Israel I feel like I’m at home. I’m one of them, not the other. It’s so much more comfortable and easy being there. Maybe that’s why I came here in the first place though…
Our last day we woke up super early and hiked to the Ashram where the Beatles stayed and supposedly composed some of the “White Album” at. The entire place was completely grown over which gave it an eerie feeling. Ayshea, Kyle and I were walking around and ran into a Hindu acetic wondering around. Apparently he was on his 3rd stage of life and gave up everything he had. He went to University for English literature so his English was perfect and he gave us a tour around the ashram and explained the history to us. He took us into the underground meditation cells, the giant lecture hall, and John Lennon’s meditation room. When I entered Lennon’s meditation cell I immediately felt a strong active presence circulating inside. It was such an intense feeling to be sitting in the exact spot where Lennon meditated. It was nice too that nothing was restored and everything was just as it was in the 70’s, just covered with Mother Nature. I bet in twenty years the entire ashram is going to be a tourist attraction. It was nice to appreciate it with nothing changed and the energies untouched.
Since it was the weekend of Kumela, it was really hard to find a taxi leaving Rishikesh- poor planning on our part. At around 2 in the afternoon we finally found 2 taxis to take us back. When we were leaving Rishikesh our taxi slightly clipped a motorcyclist in front of us. We pulled over and the motorcyclist and taxi driver got into an argument and the next thing I know they were pushing each other and the motorcyclist punched through the taxi windshield. Luckily, none of us sitting in the car were hurt. Of course by this time the entire village got involved and figured who was in the right and who was in the wrong. It was so intense but at the same time so India. After some time, we finally changed taxis and rode the 9 hours home.
This weekend was definitely one of the best weekends of my life. At one point Grace and I were crossing the suspended bridge over the Ganga and we had a cow on our left, money on our right, sadhu in front of us, the Ganga below us, and crystals in hand. This was the India I was looking for. This is the India I love.
So we caught a Grace, Darren, Austin, Ben, Katie, Joan, Hayley, Kyle, Ayshea and I all caught a bus at 9 pm on Friday from Delhi heading to Rishikesh. Of course India being India the bus was really sketchy and overcrowded but we nursed some wine on the way so the ride wasn’t too bad. The ride seemed to take forever and I’m pretty sure we crashed into a few things along the way (once again, I didn’t seem to mind thanks to the wine). At around 4 in the morning the bus stopped in Haridwar (about 45 minutes outside of Rishikesh) and orders everyone to get off. They explain that since this weekend is a major holiday (Kumela- people come to dunk themselves in the Ganga River to wash away their sins from the past 12 years and the next 12, happens about every 12 years and we just happened to be here for it) and all the roads are closed. So what do ten American students do? Drink some more wine and catch rickshaws heading to Rishikesh. If anything I’ve learned so far in India it’s to be patient and flexible. So no problemo, we rode to Rishikesh crammed into two rickshaws singing Grateful Dead and Sublime songs along the way. We finally found our hotel after asking directions about 20 times (we didn’t know the hotel name except we knew it had the word ‘castle’ in it..) and passed out until 11 the next morning.
When we woke up we all had breakfast at the German Bakery looking across the Ganga River. It was so amazing to just chill by ourselves and soak in India on our own time. The entire area was filled with Sadhus and people from all over the world on a ‘spiritual journey’ (tons of Israelis not surprisingly). Good energy was floating all around.
Grace and I went crystal shopping and dunked everything we bought in the Ganga- so epic. Just being on the Ganga was so incredible. It was so magical to watch thousands of people- both Indian and foreign- wash themselves in what is considered to be the holiest river in the world. The fact that I was touching the same river that has been around for thousands and thousands of years really had a powerful effect on me. If I have ever felt such real strong energy it was definitely from that river.
The next day we went water rafting on the Ganga with an Israeli couple we picked up along the way and a few local rafting guys (who were quite good-looking I must admit). The rapids were a level 3 so it was a little intense but overall it was quite pleasant. At one point the guide told us to jump out of the raft and just float along the river. Disregarding the lecture we were given from Dr. Storm about how not to touch the river, we submerged ourselves and floated leisurely down the river, something I will never forget, let alone regret. I can’t even describe the feeling of being carried by the Ganga. I now know why Rishikesh is just a spiritual place for people; it just oozes a beautiful aura. I wanted to stay forever.
After river rafting we walked around and did a little shopping. There were so many Israelis that some of the signs were in Hebrew, no lie. It made me miss Israel so much. Just being in India makes me miss Israel. Here I definitely feel like the “other.” Sometimes I even ask myself what I’m doing here especially since I have no ties to this country- it’s all just pure interest. With Israel I feel like I’m at home. I’m one of them, not the other. It’s so much more comfortable and easy being there. Maybe that’s why I came here in the first place though…
Our last day we woke up super early and hiked to the Ashram where the Beatles stayed and supposedly composed some of the “White Album” at. The entire place was completely grown over which gave it an eerie feeling. Ayshea, Kyle and I were walking around and ran into a Hindu acetic wondering around. Apparently he was on his 3rd stage of life and gave up everything he had. He went to University for English literature so his English was perfect and he gave us a tour around the ashram and explained the history to us. He took us into the underground meditation cells, the giant lecture hall, and John Lennon’s meditation room. When I entered Lennon’s meditation cell I immediately felt a strong active presence circulating inside. It was such an intense feeling to be sitting in the exact spot where Lennon meditated. It was nice too that nothing was restored and everything was just as it was in the 70’s, just covered with Mother Nature. I bet in twenty years the entire ashram is going to be a tourist attraction. It was nice to appreciate it with nothing changed and the energies untouched.
Since it was the weekend of Kumela, it was really hard to find a taxi leaving Rishikesh- poor planning on our part. At around 2 in the afternoon we finally found 2 taxis to take us back. When we were leaving Rishikesh our taxi slightly clipped a motorcyclist in front of us. We pulled over and the motorcyclist and taxi driver got into an argument and the next thing I know they were pushing each other and the motorcyclist punched through the taxi windshield. Luckily, none of us sitting in the car were hurt. Of course by this time the entire village got involved and figured who was in the right and who was in the wrong. It was so intense but at the same time so India. After some time, we finally changed taxis and rode the 9 hours home.
This weekend was definitely one of the best weekends of my life. At one point Grace and I were crossing the suspended bridge over the Ganga and we had a cow on our left, money on our right, sadhu in front of us, the Ganga below us, and crystals in hand. This was the India I was looking for. This is the India I love.
March 7, 2010
What a week!
On Tuesday we caught a morning train to Jhansi and from there we drove to Orchha. We stayed in the nicest hotel called Hotel Anar Mahal and it was truly a palace. My room looked like a honeymoon suite and it even had a WORKING SHOWER! It was the 1st time I got to use a shower in India and boy was it glorious. I never thought water pressure could feel so good.
We had a lecture as a palace that was turned into a hotel and from there we split into small groups for a “drop off.” Our mission was to find the specific temple given to us but my group just wondered area and literally stumbled upon a handful of ancient temples (probably from around 11th cent A.D). They were placed along a river running through the town and were completely untouched with their original architecture still intact. I love India for this- you go for a stroll and stumble upon thousand year old architecture like it was no big deal.
After our walk we went inside the hotel palace where some musicians were playing local folk music and a dancer was dancing along. The dancer turned out to be a hiraj- a cross-dresser dancer commonly found in India. He was an amazing dancer and I definitely wouldn’t have known it was a male if someone hadn’t pointed it out. It is so crazy to see the stuff I learned about in all of my Indian culture classes back at school up close and personal. It all changes when it’s not in a book but in your face. It makes it all so real.
Wednesday we left for Kujaraho to visit the Hindu temples. The actual village of Kujaraho was so cute, I definitely want to go back. Everyone was so friendly and welcoming. We rented bikes and some of the girls and I biked into the village to try to find some temples to sketch. It was such a scene, five white girls riding bikes from the 70’s that were twice our size, riding into the village with laughing naked children running after us, swerving around cows, and old Indian women just staring. At one point I fell off my bike (swerving from hitting a goat) and a little boy ran after me to help, resulting in his cow running after him, his dad running after the cow, and the entire village laughing hysterically. I have a black stain battle wound on my kurta do remember the scene by.
After biking we met a few teenage boys who knew every kind of language possible from just all the tourism that came through their town. It was incredible how smart they were! One of the boys was obsessed with Michael Jackson and we sang Michael Jackson songs for a good two hours.
The Kujaraho Temples were absolutely stunning. They had erotic carvings all over them, some of the positions I had never even heard of! We were told that the images were supposed to represent being in union with someone, much like how you are supposed to feel when you pray to God. I guess that’s one way of depicting it… It just made me realize how humans have been naughty and sexual from the beginning; I guess it’s just in our nature.
On Friday we went to Bandhavgarh to the tiger reserve. It was a little ridiculous, we drove around for about 4 hours in the hot sun looking for tigers and when we found them they were sleeping so we just stared at them for a solid half an hour. I don’t even want to know how much that cost the program. Some groups didn’t even get to see them. It was all worth it in the end because on the 2nd day I got to see an elephant- my first one in India!!! It just made me so excited for my ISP. I want to live with the elephants, eat with them, bathe with them, and become one with them. I don’t know why but they just have a magical spell over me.
On Tuesday we caught a morning train to Jhansi and from there we drove to Orchha. We stayed in the nicest hotel called Hotel Anar Mahal and it was truly a palace. My room looked like a honeymoon suite and it even had a WORKING SHOWER! It was the 1st time I got to use a shower in India and boy was it glorious. I never thought water pressure could feel so good.
We had a lecture as a palace that was turned into a hotel and from there we split into small groups for a “drop off.” Our mission was to find the specific temple given to us but my group just wondered area and literally stumbled upon a handful of ancient temples (probably from around 11th cent A.D). They were placed along a river running through the town and were completely untouched with their original architecture still intact. I love India for this- you go for a stroll and stumble upon thousand year old architecture like it was no big deal.
After our walk we went inside the hotel palace where some musicians were playing local folk music and a dancer was dancing along. The dancer turned out to be a hiraj- a cross-dresser dancer commonly found in India. He was an amazing dancer and I definitely wouldn’t have known it was a male if someone hadn’t pointed it out. It is so crazy to see the stuff I learned about in all of my Indian culture classes back at school up close and personal. It all changes when it’s not in a book but in your face. It makes it all so real.
Wednesday we left for Kujaraho to visit the Hindu temples. The actual village of Kujaraho was so cute, I definitely want to go back. Everyone was so friendly and welcoming. We rented bikes and some of the girls and I biked into the village to try to find some temples to sketch. It was such a scene, five white girls riding bikes from the 70’s that were twice our size, riding into the village with laughing naked children running after us, swerving around cows, and old Indian women just staring. At one point I fell off my bike (swerving from hitting a goat) and a little boy ran after me to help, resulting in his cow running after him, his dad running after the cow, and the entire village laughing hysterically. I have a black stain battle wound on my kurta do remember the scene by.
After biking we met a few teenage boys who knew every kind of language possible from just all the tourism that came through their town. It was incredible how smart they were! One of the boys was obsessed with Michael Jackson and we sang Michael Jackson songs for a good two hours.
The Kujaraho Temples were absolutely stunning. They had erotic carvings all over them, some of the positions I had never even heard of! We were told that the images were supposed to represent being in union with someone, much like how you are supposed to feel when you pray to God. I guess that’s one way of depicting it… It just made me realize how humans have been naughty and sexual from the beginning; I guess it’s just in our nature.
On Friday we went to Bandhavgarh to the tiger reserve. It was a little ridiculous, we drove around for about 4 hours in the hot sun looking for tigers and when we found them they were sleeping so we just stared at them for a solid half an hour. I don’t even want to know how much that cost the program. Some groups didn’t even get to see them. It was all worth it in the end because on the 2nd day I got to see an elephant- my first one in India!!! It just made me so excited for my ISP. I want to live with the elephants, eat with them, bathe with them, and become one with them. I don’t know why but they just have a magical spell over me.
February 24, 2010
Today was quite the cultural day. On a field trip we went to the Indian National Museum which was full of amazing stuff like ancient coins from the 2500 B.C. and miniature paintings done under Muslim patronage around 11 cent A.D. Everything was SO OLD! Everything Dr. Storm showed us in the museum were things we learned about in class so I could piece the history to everything I was actually looking at. There was one sculpture I really liked with a woman holding an empty glass being held up by two friends… even in the 5th cent BC people knew how to party.
In the evening I saw “My Name is Khan” at a local cinema. It was so intense… Seeing this movie as a foreigner in India definitely gave the entire movie a different meaning to me compared to an India viewer. America was dramatized and stereotyped in a way which I knew existed but had never seen before my eyes. The way the movie portrayed Americans as violent and vicious after the attacks on September 11th by having them attack Muslim store owners and killing Indian boys at school cast the impression that this was a daily occurrence (which to an extent may have been) but made me realize how this distortion could be easily created. This movie is a popular movie in India with thousands of Indians viewing it every night. They walk away with this intense twisted view of America from just a three hour movie. Their views are constructed entirely from what is chosen to be portrayed by the director. This made me step back and question what I know about other countries where I have never even set foot in. Take coming to India for example. I had an entire view of India in my mind composed from only images I have seen and stories I have been told. As I am learning, the India I had stereotyped in my mind is far different from reality.
In the evening I saw “My Name is Khan” at a local cinema. It was so intense… Seeing this movie as a foreigner in India definitely gave the entire movie a different meaning to me compared to an India viewer. America was dramatized and stereotyped in a way which I knew existed but had never seen before my eyes. The way the movie portrayed Americans as violent and vicious after the attacks on September 11th by having them attack Muslim store owners and killing Indian boys at school cast the impression that this was a daily occurrence (which to an extent may have been) but made me realize how this distortion could be easily created. This movie is a popular movie in India with thousands of Indians viewing it every night. They walk away with this intense twisted view of America from just a three hour movie. Their views are constructed entirely from what is chosen to be portrayed by the director. This made me step back and question what I know about other countries where I have never even set foot in. Take coming to India for example. I had an entire view of India in my mind composed from only images I have seen and stories I have been told. As I am learning, the India I had stereotyped in my mind is far different from reality.
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
Feb 22, 2010
So Saturday night I ended up getting food poisoning and coundlt leave the “hotel” (more like a hell hole) the entire day. I never want to go back to Agra or Fatepur Sikri ever again. Although I definitely don’t regret seeing the Taj Mahal, I would never want to go back. Agra is just so dirty and filthy that I don’t trust anything that comes out from there. I still feel queasy whenever I try to eat food so I’m going to have to take it slow for the next couple of days.
It’s starting to get hotter each day here. My painting teacher said only 10 more days of nice weather and then it sky rockets into the high 90’s. And that’s just spring! Time to break out the sunscreen.
It’s starting to get hotter each day here. My painting teacher said only 10 more days of nice weather and then it sky rockets into the high 90’s. And that’s just spring! Time to break out the sunscreen.
Feb 20, 2010
This morning we woke up at dawn to see the sunrise at the Taj Mahal. Although we didn’t get there until after sunrise, it was still stunning. I have never seen anything more beautiful in my life. The entire architecture of the Taj is complete perfection. The fact that Shah Jahan created such a flawless and magnificent building out of love to house his wife’s tomb makes the Taj even more exquisite.
After the Taj Mahal we went to the Agra Fort built by Akbar. It was a military fort with a palace inside. It too was a beautiful piece of architecture. The Mughals definitely had it down. Or too much money to spend. It was so fascinating to walk through the fort and look at semi-precious stone inlays and know that it has been there for hundreds of years. I forget that we have shared this planet for thousands of years with billions of people.
After the Agra Fort we went to Itamad-Ud-Daula built by Nur Shaha. It was a tomb for her parents and was built in the same style of the Taj Mahal, just on a smaller scale. Out of all the tombs I have seen so far in India, it was definitely the most ornate and stylized one. She had great taste. The entire building was covered in semi-precious stones which made up flowers climbing the walls. The entire building was so beautiful and such an incredible display of love and honor for her parents.
The city of Agra is my least favorite so far. It’s so dirty and the kids begging on the street are ruthless- you have to keep your doors locked and windows up at all times because they try to get in your car. I never thought I would miss Delhi so much.
After the Taj Mahal we went to the Agra Fort built by Akbar. It was a military fort with a palace inside. It too was a beautiful piece of architecture. The Mughals definitely had it down. Or too much money to spend. It was so fascinating to walk through the fort and look at semi-precious stone inlays and know that it has been there for hundreds of years. I forget that we have shared this planet for thousands of years with billions of people.
After the Agra Fort we went to Itamad-Ud-Daula built by Nur Shaha. It was a tomb for her parents and was built in the same style of the Taj Mahal, just on a smaller scale. Out of all the tombs I have seen so far in India, it was definitely the most ornate and stylized one. She had great taste. The entire building was covered in semi-precious stones which made up flowers climbing the walls. The entire building was so beautiful and such an incredible display of love and honor for her parents.
The city of Agra is my least favorite so far. It’s so dirty and the kids begging on the street are ruthless- you have to keep your doors locked and windows up at all times because they try to get in your car. I never thought I would miss Delhi so much.
Feb 19, 2010
I am currently on my way to Agra for the weekend to see the Taj Mahal and the Red Fort, both built in the Mughal dynasty. We’re taking 5 taxis because the train was delayed 5 hours. No problem, if anything I’ve learned in India so far it’s be flexible.
I just watched the sun go down. I’ve never seen such an exquisite sunset. It wasn’t the sky that was so memorizing but the sun itself. It felt so big and close it was as if you could touch it. It reminded me of when I was at the Bedouin camp in Israel and I hiked up a hill at night to look at the stars. It literally felt as if I could reach up and pull them down. It was exactly how I felt with the Indian sun; it felt so close as if I could walk right up to it. The orange-red that filled the sun was the most intense and striking natural color I have ever seen. Because India is so flat you can see the sunset almost anywhere. India definitely takes the cake for sunsets (although Seattle is close second).
I’m falling in love with India more and more every day. I think all of my judgments have somewhat dissolved and I can just enjoy India for what she’s about. I’ve realized that I need to let go of all my preconceived judgments about India and just take every minute in. When I first arrived I looked at the poor on the street and just assumed how miserable their lives must be. But I’ve learned that they aren’t poor. In fact, they may be the richest people on earth. I’m slowly learning you can’t measure wealth with material things. When it all boils down, material things don’t matter- you can’t take them with you when you pass on. All you can take is your state of mind. These people on the streets have it figured out. They know how to find happiness without objects and stuff; they know how to enjoy life as it is. They have it figured out. I could definitely learn something from them…
I just watched the sun go down. I’ve never seen such an exquisite sunset. It wasn’t the sky that was so memorizing but the sun itself. It felt so big and close it was as if you could touch it. It reminded me of when I was at the Bedouin camp in Israel and I hiked up a hill at night to look at the stars. It literally felt as if I could reach up and pull them down. It was exactly how I felt with the Indian sun; it felt so close as if I could walk right up to it. The orange-red that filled the sun was the most intense and striking natural color I have ever seen. Because India is so flat you can see the sunset almost anywhere. India definitely takes the cake for sunsets (although Seattle is close second).
I’m falling in love with India more and more every day. I think all of my judgments have somewhat dissolved and I can just enjoy India for what she’s about. I’ve realized that I need to let go of all my preconceived judgments about India and just take every minute in. When I first arrived I looked at the poor on the street and just assumed how miserable their lives must be. But I’ve learned that they aren’t poor. In fact, they may be the richest people on earth. I’m slowly learning you can’t measure wealth with material things. When it all boils down, material things don’t matter- you can’t take them with you when you pass on. All you can take is your state of mind. These people on the streets have it figured out. They know how to find happiness without objects and stuff; they know how to enjoy life as it is. They have it figured out. I could definitely learn something from them…
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
Feb 14th
Valentines Day! …apparently they don’t celebrate it here.
I’m currently waiting for the water to heat up so I can take a bucket shower. My towel is as stiff as a board from doing laundry the other day. I would give my soul for some fabric softener right now.
Yesterday we went to Lodi Gardens for a little picnic with some of the girls. The park was so beautiful and pleasant! We walked around a little bit and just chilled on the lawns. After Lodi Gardens we went to Cannaught Place Market where I spent way too much money shopping. Everything is just so beautiful and cheap I can’t resist!
After we left C.P. we went to a Kitak dance performance. Although it wasn’t anywhere as good as Rajasthan Roots it was still appealing to watch. The only downside was it was all in Hindi so we had no clue what was going on or what the story was about. But the dancing was fun to watch. You could kind of get the story because the dancer’s moves were so specific and precise.
Today is homework day for me. Just a lazy Sunday reading for my independent study project (ISP) and doing some Hindi homework. I changed my ISP to elephant conservation, I’m so excited! I can’t believe I’ve been here two weeks already, it feels like I’ve been here for two months but at the same time the days go by so fast. I’m just trying to take it all in.
I’m currently waiting for the water to heat up so I can take a bucket shower. My towel is as stiff as a board from doing laundry the other day. I would give my soul for some fabric softener right now.
Yesterday we went to Lodi Gardens for a little picnic with some of the girls. The park was so beautiful and pleasant! We walked around a little bit and just chilled on the lawns. After Lodi Gardens we went to Cannaught Place Market where I spent way too much money shopping. Everything is just so beautiful and cheap I can’t resist!
After we left C.P. we went to a Kitak dance performance. Although it wasn’t anywhere as good as Rajasthan Roots it was still appealing to watch. The only downside was it was all in Hindi so we had no clue what was going on or what the story was about. But the dancing was fun to watch. You could kind of get the story because the dancer’s moves were so specific and precise.
Today is homework day for me. Just a lazy Sunday reading for my independent study project (ISP) and doing some Hindi homework. I changed my ISP to elephant conservation, I’m so excited! I can’t believe I’ve been here two weeks already, it feels like I’ve been here for two months but at the same time the days go by so fast. I’m just trying to take it all in.
Feb. 12th
I’m starting to get in the flow of things here.
We had Hindi in the morning (which is getting harder and harder each day) and then a lecture on Islam and Sufism. It was definitely interesting to learn about Sufism because I had no clue what is was about. Apparently they are all about using music to reach God and building a relationship of pure love. Sounds good to me.
We didn’t have any excursions planned today so Ayshea and I went to try to find a Shiva temple since today was Shivarti (Shiva’s birthday). We didn’t end up finding the temple but we stumbled upon (quite literally) the Baha’i Lotus Temple which was absolutely breath taking. It’s shaped as a giant lotus flower and the inside was as if you were a tiny dew drop being engulfed by this enormous flower architecture. It was so meditative inside because everything was bathed in white and there was no speaking inside.
After the temple we wondered around until it was time to go to the Rajasthan Roots concert. We didn’t know how far it was so I asked some guy in an important looking uniform if he knew where it was. The guy was so sweet that not only did he find out where the concert was but he stood out in the pouring rain looking for a rickshaw for us and then continued to argue with the driver until he gave us a fair price. By that time a lightning and thunder storm had rolled in and we rode through the streets of Delhi in the pouring rain. Mind you that the rickshaw has no doors so by the time we arrived to the concert we were drenched. But since it was our first Indian rain storm we didn’t mind.
I didn’t really know what to expect for Rajasthan Roots but it blew my mind! There were all sorts of instruments I have never even seen. The band played traditional Rajasthani folk music fused with blues, jazz, and electronica. For a few songs a Rajasthani woman dancer came out dancing in full on traditional dress with a pot of flames balanced on her head- true talent if I ever saw it. The entire performance was amazing. They were all about creativity and spreading their music so all can enjoy. It’s so cool how no matter what culture you’re from anyone can enjoy and appreciate music. Although the entire concert was in Hindi I was able to fully enjoy myself and dance along with the other spectators.
I definitely fell in love with India today. I just realized that the people of India are the most warm-hearted people I have ever met. They really do care. The man who helped us find a rickshaw, the rickshaw driver himself, the woman working at the concert who found me in the crowd just to give me the coke I left- they all genuinely care. Their hearts are enormous, we could all learn from them.
I can already tell I’m going to miss this city a lot when I leave. Everything is just so exciting here. Just taking a rickshaw to class feels like a huge adventure and accomplishment when it’s over. More and more everyday it feels like home here.
We had Hindi in the morning (which is getting harder and harder each day) and then a lecture on Islam and Sufism. It was definitely interesting to learn about Sufism because I had no clue what is was about. Apparently they are all about using music to reach God and building a relationship of pure love. Sounds good to me.
We didn’t have any excursions planned today so Ayshea and I went to try to find a Shiva temple since today was Shivarti (Shiva’s birthday). We didn’t end up finding the temple but we stumbled upon (quite literally) the Baha’i Lotus Temple which was absolutely breath taking. It’s shaped as a giant lotus flower and the inside was as if you were a tiny dew drop being engulfed by this enormous flower architecture. It was so meditative inside because everything was bathed in white and there was no speaking inside.
After the temple we wondered around until it was time to go to the Rajasthan Roots concert. We didn’t know how far it was so I asked some guy in an important looking uniform if he knew where it was. The guy was so sweet that not only did he find out where the concert was but he stood out in the pouring rain looking for a rickshaw for us and then continued to argue with the driver until he gave us a fair price. By that time a lightning and thunder storm had rolled in and we rode through the streets of Delhi in the pouring rain. Mind you that the rickshaw has no doors so by the time we arrived to the concert we were drenched. But since it was our first Indian rain storm we didn’t mind.
I didn’t really know what to expect for Rajasthan Roots but it blew my mind! There were all sorts of instruments I have never even seen. The band played traditional Rajasthani folk music fused with blues, jazz, and electronica. For a few songs a Rajasthani woman dancer came out dancing in full on traditional dress with a pot of flames balanced on her head- true talent if I ever saw it. The entire performance was amazing. They were all about creativity and spreading their music so all can enjoy. It’s so cool how no matter what culture you’re from anyone can enjoy and appreciate music. Although the entire concert was in Hindi I was able to fully enjoy myself and dance along with the other spectators.
I definitely fell in love with India today. I just realized that the people of India are the most warm-hearted people I have ever met. They really do care. The man who helped us find a rickshaw, the rickshaw driver himself, the woman working at the concert who found me in the crowd just to give me the coke I left- they all genuinely care. Their hearts are enormous, we could all learn from them.
I can already tell I’m going to miss this city a lot when I leave. Everything is just so exciting here. Just taking a rickshaw to class feels like a huge adventure and accomplishment when it’s over. More and more everyday it feels like home here.
Feb. 11th 1010
Today was a good day.
Hindi in the morning wasn’t too bad today. Its hard trying to learn a year of Hindi in just two months but it they do it every session I guess its possible.
Our lecture afterwards was about all the different gods in Hinduism which was so interesting. There are over one million of them! I’m pretty sure there’s a god for everything from driving to making love to eating. The god Ganesha is definitely my favorite. He’s the “remover of obstacles” and “god of beginnings.” He represents the perfect balance of human and animal nature, emotional yet logical. He’s such a powerful and strong deity and plus, he’s half elephant. What’s not to love?
We went to the National Craft Museum after lunch (which was incredible as always- fish, green chutney, a pumpkin squash mixture, rice, roti, paneer, and fruit custard) in north Delhi. There were all sorts of art work from ancient South Asia. Everything from sculptures to textiles to painting to jewelry was in the museum. And everything was so beautiful and detailed, even from thousands of years ago! It made me think about how important art is because it’s a form of expression, and outlet to show emotion that can otherwise be hard to express. And the art I was looking at from thousands of years ago was all done my people. People with families, worries, feelings, jobs, passions, favorites, and problems. I mean who knows who these people were when they were creating these masterful pieces of artwork. They could have been going through a break up, been falling in love, been going through the loss of a loved one. People are people, we’re all the same. We all have these worries, hopes, and problems no matter what time period we live in. Time may pass but people are still the same people even now. We all need to express ourselves in some shape or form. Life is truly impossible without art.
It was pretty cool, at the museum there was an ancient hookah from the 20th cent which was decorated beautifully. Even back then humans knew how to chill out and relax. There was also gorgeous Indian dress and jewelry from hundreds of years ago (not much of their style has changed I realized). They even had lace undergarments from soooo long ago! It’s going to be crazy to look back at the clothing styles from today fifty years from now and see how much it changes. I mean, even in a single century styles change dramatically.
There was a piece of architecture that was some sort of balcony with windows that had pierced screen coverings. It was used for women to be able to look out without them being seen. It makes me so mad that men have been forcing women to conceal themselves to the depths of blackness for centuries, shielding them from the outside. For hundreds if not thousands of years women have been forced to do this. Look at the burka- man’s attempt to hide woman from the world. And why? Who do men have such an urge to hide women? What are they so afraid of? And why do women take it? Why are we so scared to fight back? Being here in India had made me so much aware of “modesty.” Just showing your ankle is being improper and even slutty in some cases. When did this start to evolve? Who said that women must be modest? We are beautiful creatures, and individuals. Men should not have the power to dictate us. It just aggravates me to even think about. I guess you can’t understand everything about a culture just from being here for one month. Maybe one day I’ll understand their reasoning, maybe not. It’s not my culture so I shouldn’t judge.
On a lighter note, Ayshea and I did laundry out of the bucket today- quite a scene. We put our clothes in the bucket with machine laundry soap (we didn’t know what else to use) and kind of just mashed it around. Our clothes are drying on the line right now; it should be interesting to see how they come out. I think we might just end up hiring a dobhi-walla (washerman) by the time the programs over…
Tomorrow is Shiva’s birthday. Apparently he was known as a great ganja smoker so in order to celebrate it is customary to drink “baung” with is a milky drink infused with hemp oil. Basically an edible. Sounds like a party to me…
Friday tomorrow, yay. I need the weekend.
Hindi in the morning wasn’t too bad today. Its hard trying to learn a year of Hindi in just two months but it they do it every session I guess its possible.
Our lecture afterwards was about all the different gods in Hinduism which was so interesting. There are over one million of them! I’m pretty sure there’s a god for everything from driving to making love to eating. The god Ganesha is definitely my favorite. He’s the “remover of obstacles” and “god of beginnings.” He represents the perfect balance of human and animal nature, emotional yet logical. He’s such a powerful and strong deity and plus, he’s half elephant. What’s not to love?
We went to the National Craft Museum after lunch (which was incredible as always- fish, green chutney, a pumpkin squash mixture, rice, roti, paneer, and fruit custard) in north Delhi. There were all sorts of art work from ancient South Asia. Everything from sculptures to textiles to painting to jewelry was in the museum. And everything was so beautiful and detailed, even from thousands of years ago! It made me think about how important art is because it’s a form of expression, and outlet to show emotion that can otherwise be hard to express. And the art I was looking at from thousands of years ago was all done my people. People with families, worries, feelings, jobs, passions, favorites, and problems. I mean who knows who these people were when they were creating these masterful pieces of artwork. They could have been going through a break up, been falling in love, been going through the loss of a loved one. People are people, we’re all the same. We all have these worries, hopes, and problems no matter what time period we live in. Time may pass but people are still the same people even now. We all need to express ourselves in some shape or form. Life is truly impossible without art.
It was pretty cool, at the museum there was an ancient hookah from the 20th cent which was decorated beautifully. Even back then humans knew how to chill out and relax. There was also gorgeous Indian dress and jewelry from hundreds of years ago (not much of their style has changed I realized). They even had lace undergarments from soooo long ago! It’s going to be crazy to look back at the clothing styles from today fifty years from now and see how much it changes. I mean, even in a single century styles change dramatically.
There was a piece of architecture that was some sort of balcony with windows that had pierced screen coverings. It was used for women to be able to look out without them being seen. It makes me so mad that men have been forcing women to conceal themselves to the depths of blackness for centuries, shielding them from the outside. For hundreds if not thousands of years women have been forced to do this. Look at the burka- man’s attempt to hide woman from the world. And why? Who do men have such an urge to hide women? What are they so afraid of? And why do women take it? Why are we so scared to fight back? Being here in India had made me so much aware of “modesty.” Just showing your ankle is being improper and even slutty in some cases. When did this start to evolve? Who said that women must be modest? We are beautiful creatures, and individuals. Men should not have the power to dictate us. It just aggravates me to even think about. I guess you can’t understand everything about a culture just from being here for one month. Maybe one day I’ll understand their reasoning, maybe not. It’s not my culture so I shouldn’t judge.
On a lighter note, Ayshea and I did laundry out of the bucket today- quite a scene. We put our clothes in the bucket with machine laundry soap (we didn’t know what else to use) and kind of just mashed it around. Our clothes are drying on the line right now; it should be interesting to see how they come out. I think we might just end up hiring a dobhi-walla (washerman) by the time the programs over…
Tomorrow is Shiva’s birthday. Apparently he was known as a great ganja smoker so in order to celebrate it is customary to drink “baung” with is a milky drink infused with hemp oil. Basically an edible. Sounds like a party to me…
Friday tomorrow, yay. I need the weekend.
Thursday, February 18, 2010
Feb. 10th, 2010
Today was the first day of lecture. I rode a rickshaw by myself this morning which wasn’t too bad (I now consider myself a pro.) we had Hindi in the morning and then a lecture on “Rasa” afterwards. Lunch was incredible as usual, except I don’t know what the fuck I’m eating most of the time.
After lunch I went to my Mudabai painting class with four other of the girls on my program. It was so nice to just sit down, relax, and draw. The woman’s house was absolutely incredible, not to mention the woman herself! She painted on all of her walls and her house was full of color, everywhere you looked. She had a bunch of girls from small rural villages painting their own paintings upstairs. Apparently she gives free lessons to anyone who wants to learn how to paint in this specific style. She’s really an incredible woman and a talented painter as well. I hope I’m like her when I’m older.
Sunita-ji (my home stay mom) taught us how to make chapatti today at dinner. It was nice spending time with her and actually doing something. I think she’s warming up to me and Ayshea. Baby steps…
Lots of cows on the road today. Oh, and two camels!
I hear kids playing outside right now, its 11:00 at night! I’ve realized that America is so over-protective with children. Today I saw a couple on a motorcycle riding with their toddler on their lap, no seat-belt or helmet. Kids don’t go to bed at 7 or 8; they go to bed at 11 or 12. They are so independent. I see little kids walking to school by themselves crossing the most dangerous traffic in the world like it’s a field of daisies. The homeless children are especially independent. They walk around crowded markets or in-between cars rushing by on the road carrying new born babies or hauling around trash bags ten times their size. They are forced to become so old so early in life. I wish I could just scoop all of them up, put them in my pocket, and give them a warm meal and a roof to live under. A whole different world where they wouldn’t have to be sick or addicted to paint thinner. I really wish there was something I could do.
I guess just opening my eyes is a step in the right direction.
After lunch I went to my Mudabai painting class with four other of the girls on my program. It was so nice to just sit down, relax, and draw. The woman’s house was absolutely incredible, not to mention the woman herself! She painted on all of her walls and her house was full of color, everywhere you looked. She had a bunch of girls from small rural villages painting their own paintings upstairs. Apparently she gives free lessons to anyone who wants to learn how to paint in this specific style. She’s really an incredible woman and a talented painter as well. I hope I’m like her when I’m older.
Sunita-ji (my home stay mom) taught us how to make chapatti today at dinner. It was nice spending time with her and actually doing something. I think she’s warming up to me and Ayshea. Baby steps…
Lots of cows on the road today. Oh, and two camels!
I hear kids playing outside right now, its 11:00 at night! I’ve realized that America is so over-protective with children. Today I saw a couple on a motorcycle riding with their toddler on their lap, no seat-belt or helmet. Kids don’t go to bed at 7 or 8; they go to bed at 11 or 12. They are so independent. I see little kids walking to school by themselves crossing the most dangerous traffic in the world like it’s a field of daisies. The homeless children are especially independent. They walk around crowded markets or in-between cars rushing by on the road carrying new born babies or hauling around trash bags ten times their size. They are forced to become so old so early in life. I wish I could just scoop all of them up, put them in my pocket, and give them a warm meal and a roof to live under. A whole different world where they wouldn’t have to be sick or addicted to paint thinner. I really wish there was something I could do.
I guess just opening my eyes is a step in the right direction.
Feb. 8th, 2010
2/8/10
I’m listening to the rain fall right now, my first Indian rain. Apparently it does rain other then the monsoon season. Sounds like Seattle…
Today half the students had problems with their visas so they had to go to some government building (which I heard was like the DMV but a million times worse, apparently they have stacks of just paper work to the ceiling and you can’t even imagine the people in there) so the other half of us decided to check out the Indian library. The library itself was beautiful and had books from what seemed like 800 BC! There was only one computer in the entire library and they were still using the catalogue system. It was so funny, at 1:00pm they announced it was “tea time” and everyone was ushered upstairs for chai… so Indian! Although I didn’t get much done (I wondered outside and got distracted by the ice cream cart) it was a cool experience.
I’m still not comfortable enough to walk around in the city by myself. The fact that I speak absolutely no Hindi except for “Namaste” combined with the fact that everyone else in the city speaks no English except for “hello” is a recipe for disaster, let a alone a very short conversation. Ayshea and I got lost coming home from school in the rickshaw and completely over-paid the driver. It’s hard not knowing the language or your surroundings. Our programs mantra is “patience, humor, and flexibility” which is what I keep telling myself every time I stat to stress. So far it seems to be working. We made it home ok in the end,
I hate bucket showers. I don’t care if they save water to make me realize how much I am using during one shower, I hate them. I would give anything for a long, hot shower right now. And a massage. Have I mentioned that beds in India typically consist of a sheet of plywood accompanied by a nice bag full of sand as a pillow? It’s quite luxurious… very nice right after a bucket shower.
Although I may be ranting a lot right now, there is no place I would rather be.
I’m listening to the rain fall right now, my first Indian rain. Apparently it does rain other then the monsoon season. Sounds like Seattle…
Today half the students had problems with their visas so they had to go to some government building (which I heard was like the DMV but a million times worse, apparently they have stacks of just paper work to the ceiling and you can’t even imagine the people in there) so the other half of us decided to check out the Indian library. The library itself was beautiful and had books from what seemed like 800 BC! There was only one computer in the entire library and they were still using the catalogue system. It was so funny, at 1:00pm they announced it was “tea time” and everyone was ushered upstairs for chai… so Indian! Although I didn’t get much done (I wondered outside and got distracted by the ice cream cart) it was a cool experience.
I’m still not comfortable enough to walk around in the city by myself. The fact that I speak absolutely no Hindi except for “Namaste” combined with the fact that everyone else in the city speaks no English except for “hello” is a recipe for disaster, let a alone a very short conversation. Ayshea and I got lost coming home from school in the rickshaw and completely over-paid the driver. It’s hard not knowing the language or your surroundings. Our programs mantra is “patience, humor, and flexibility” which is what I keep telling myself every time I stat to stress. So far it seems to be working. We made it home ok in the end,
I hate bucket showers. I don’t care if they save water to make me realize how much I am using during one shower, I hate them. I would give anything for a long, hot shower right now. And a massage. Have I mentioned that beds in India typically consist of a sheet of plywood accompanied by a nice bag full of sand as a pillow? It’s quite luxurious… very nice right after a bucket shower.
Although I may be ranting a lot right now, there is no place I would rather be.
Monday, February 15, 2010
Day Five
2/7/10
We moved in with out home stay family today. My roommate is Ayshea which I’m really excited about. She’s from Atlanta, Georgia but studies film at Ithaca College in NY. She’s super chill and laid back so I know we will get along just fine.
Were staying with a woman named Sunita. She’s a widow with one son who goes to school in Maryland. Her house is absolutely beautiful in a really nice neighborhood. She’s super sweet and an amazing painter which is great because I can use her as an advisor as well. She’s also an incredible cook. For dinner she made some sort of potato and mushroom dish, roti, and rice. I don’t even like mushrooms but I mopped it up pretty quick. Ayshea and I live on the 2nd floor in a bedroom with its own terrace. It’s a pretty nice set up. Unfortunately Sunita has a bucket shower so I’m just going to have to get used to it. No internet as well… I’m dying.
Although I’m really excited to be living with Sunita-ji, I’m kind of disappointed that I’m not living with a big family. I don’t know what I’m going to do with all the candy and Michael Jackson t-shirts I brought. Maybe I’ll meet some kids later on or Sunita-ji has some little nieces and nephews. Or ill just rock them back in the States.
The first day moving in was successfully awkward, just as all first days. So many quiet moments. Sunita speaks English pretty well but she’s shy about it and Ayshea and I know barely any Hindi so it’s hard to converse. Dinner was pretty quiet too. Ayshea and I are both quiet and kind of shy so that combined with the language barrier might be kind of rough. Hopefully it will get better and the house won’t be so quiet.
Tomorrow we’re going to some library, should be interesting. I should kick my butt in gear and start researching my ISP.
The neighbor is blasting some sort of bollywood music… oh India.
We moved in with out home stay family today. My roommate is Ayshea which I’m really excited about. She’s from Atlanta, Georgia but studies film at Ithaca College in NY. She’s super chill and laid back so I know we will get along just fine.
Were staying with a woman named Sunita. She’s a widow with one son who goes to school in Maryland. Her house is absolutely beautiful in a really nice neighborhood. She’s super sweet and an amazing painter which is great because I can use her as an advisor as well. She’s also an incredible cook. For dinner she made some sort of potato and mushroom dish, roti, and rice. I don’t even like mushrooms but I mopped it up pretty quick. Ayshea and I live on the 2nd floor in a bedroom with its own terrace. It’s a pretty nice set up. Unfortunately Sunita has a bucket shower so I’m just going to have to get used to it. No internet as well… I’m dying.
Although I’m really excited to be living with Sunita-ji, I’m kind of disappointed that I’m not living with a big family. I don’t know what I’m going to do with all the candy and Michael Jackson t-shirts I brought. Maybe I’ll meet some kids later on or Sunita-ji has some little nieces and nephews. Or ill just rock them back in the States.
The first day moving in was successfully awkward, just as all first days. So many quiet moments. Sunita speaks English pretty well but she’s shy about it and Ayshea and I know barely any Hindi so it’s hard to converse. Dinner was pretty quiet too. Ayshea and I are both quiet and kind of shy so that combined with the language barrier might be kind of rough. Hopefully it will get better and the house won’t be so quiet.
Tomorrow we’re going to some library, should be interesting. I should kick my butt in gear and start researching my ISP.
The neighbor is blasting some sort of bollywood music… oh India.
Day four
2/6/10
I can’t believe it’s already Saturday!
We leave for our home stay families tomorrow, I’m super nervous. I hope my family is close to the center. I hope they have kids too considering I brought gifts for children. At least I know I’m not going to be living alone. I wonder who my roommate will be. Considering I like everyone on the program I’m not too worried.
I decided on my independent study project today. I’m curious of how people illustrate enlightenment through art so I’m going to study Buddhist art schools and how they traditionally depict enlightenment and then meditate myself and paint what I see while I meditate. I don’t have too many details yet but at least I have a start.
I signed up for the painting practica today. I figure it goes hand in hand with my independent study project. Plus, I’m sure the woman in charge of the practica will be a great resource as to where to go to see actual Buddhist paintings and where to get cheap art supplies.
During the practica demonstrations there was a tabla and citar player which was utterly mind blowing. The citar player was so passionate and talented that I could feel his music vibrate through me. Both the musicians played off each other beautifully; it was as if the instruments were talking to each other.
I couldn’t even imagine being in Eugene right now. As much as I miss it every day here is so new and exciting. Everyday I’m here is truly a blessing.
I can’t believe it’s already Saturday!
We leave for our home stay families tomorrow, I’m super nervous. I hope my family is close to the center. I hope they have kids too considering I brought gifts for children. At least I know I’m not going to be living alone. I wonder who my roommate will be. Considering I like everyone on the program I’m not too worried.
I decided on my independent study project today. I’m curious of how people illustrate enlightenment through art so I’m going to study Buddhist art schools and how they traditionally depict enlightenment and then meditate myself and paint what I see while I meditate. I don’t have too many details yet but at least I have a start.
I signed up for the painting practica today. I figure it goes hand in hand with my independent study project. Plus, I’m sure the woman in charge of the practica will be a great resource as to where to go to see actual Buddhist paintings and where to get cheap art supplies.
During the practica demonstrations there was a tabla and citar player which was utterly mind blowing. The citar player was so passionate and talented that I could feel his music vibrate through me. Both the musicians played off each other beautifully; it was as if the instruments were talking to each other.
I couldn’t even imagine being in Eugene right now. As much as I miss it every day here is so new and exciting. Everyday I’m here is truly a blessing.
Day three
2/5/10
This morning I look a bucket shower which was quite interesting. I filled the bucket with warm water and used a little cup to pour it over me. Although I’m definitely never going to get used to the “bucket shower” idea, it makes me aware of how much water I use in a single shower. My hair alone needs its own bucket!
Delhi is starting to get to me. I can’t take the traffic, the poverty, the trash, the pollution, and honking, the smell. I don’t know how people can live here. Today I saw a child holding a baby with its hand severely burned off. They do this just to make others take pity on them and give them money. In the market I saw a legless man hobbling around begging for change and a woman holding a barely alive baby shoving it in my face. Children limp around with failing health and dirty bodies, many missing limbs, asking for money and it’s all they do. Every day. For the rest of their lives. It’s so sad, almost unbearable to see every day. When you see it in front of your face you turn your head but the mage stays with you. Those sad yellow eyes, the dirty fingers tapping on the window, the amputated arm trying to move. All I want to do is help.
We had a Hindi drop off today and bought Indian clothing. I know I’m not going to wear much of it when I get home so I was thinking of making some of the fabric into pillows.
I can hear honking all the way in the Ashram…
It’s so crazy here in Delhi. There’s no way I can stay here for my independent study project. I feel like I lose a year off my life every day I’m here with the stress of the traffic and the heartache of the poverty. It’s all so much to take in
This morning I look a bucket shower which was quite interesting. I filled the bucket with warm water and used a little cup to pour it over me. Although I’m definitely never going to get used to the “bucket shower” idea, it makes me aware of how much water I use in a single shower. My hair alone needs its own bucket!
Delhi is starting to get to me. I can’t take the traffic, the poverty, the trash, the pollution, and honking, the smell. I don’t know how people can live here. Today I saw a child holding a baby with its hand severely burned off. They do this just to make others take pity on them and give them money. In the market I saw a legless man hobbling around begging for change and a woman holding a barely alive baby shoving it in my face. Children limp around with failing health and dirty bodies, many missing limbs, asking for money and it’s all they do. Every day. For the rest of their lives. It’s so sad, almost unbearable to see every day. When you see it in front of your face you turn your head but the mage stays with you. Those sad yellow eyes, the dirty fingers tapping on the window, the amputated arm trying to move. All I want to do is help.
We had a Hindi drop off today and bought Indian clothing. I know I’m not going to wear much of it when I get home so I was thinking of making some of the fabric into pillows.
I can hear honking all the way in the Ashram…
It’s so crazy here in Delhi. There’s no way I can stay here for my independent study project. I feel like I lose a year off my life every day I’m here with the stress of the traffic and the heartache of the poverty. It’s all so much to take in
Day Two
2/4/10
The days seem to go by so fast here. I’ve only been here for two days and it feels like two weeks.
We didn’t have Hindi lessons today. Instead, we went to lunch at the little hole in the wall lunch canteen called Andhra Bhawan, it was so authentic that about 2/3rds of the group had to take 5 tablets of Pepto-Bismol. I’m very proud of myself for trying and eating (most of) the food here. It’s mostly carbs and veggies but so far I haven’t missed a meal.
After lunch our group split into 4 smaller groups and each went to different temples in Delhi. My group went to the Birla temple which was absolutely gorgeous. When we walked in there was a bollywood movie being filmed and of course us stupid Americans thought the actors were just enjoying the temple just as we were. We were quickly shooed (quite rudely) out of the set. Other than that, the temple itself was quite serene. The walls were adorned with brightly colored paintings different gods such as Kali, Durga, and Shiva. In one section excerpts from the Baghavad Gita were carved into the stone walls. We gave offerings and were blessed by a priest who later explained to me that everybody, no matter what religion, race, or gender, was welcomed into the temple.
After the temple we went to Humayun’s tomb which was absolutely stunning as well. Definitely the most beautiful structure I have ever seen in my life (thus far). It was HUGE and so detailed! It’s funny to think that such a big piece of architecture was just built for one guy. He must have been very loved…or very rich.
I’ve been spending a lot of time with Savita-ji, one of the Hindi teachers/student mentors. She is such a sweet woman and probably one of the friendliest people I have ever met. She took Austin and me to a nearby market to exchange some money which of course was an experience. We took a rickshaw there and I definitely saw my life flash before my eyes. I really don’t know how people can live in this city with this traffic. Apparently Delhi had the highest number of traffic deaths in the WORLD. I kiss the ground every time I get out of a car. Anyway, the market was about a 10 minute rickshaw ride away and I bought my first Indian scarf for about….$1.50. I love India. Everything is so beautiful and cheap here! Tomorrow we’re going shopping for Indian clothes to wear around the city so we’re not blatantly foreigners. I want to bring a suitcase of just scarves home!
When we got back I was locked out of my room so Savita-ji gave me some one-on-one Hindi lessons which were really helpful. I can already tell it’s going to be a struggle to learn this language. Tomorrow we have a quiz which I’m not too confident about…hopefully it will just get easier.
The days seem to go by so fast here. I’ve only been here for two days and it feels like two weeks.
We didn’t have Hindi lessons today. Instead, we went to lunch at the little hole in the wall lunch canteen called Andhra Bhawan, it was so authentic that about 2/3rds of the group had to take 5 tablets of Pepto-Bismol. I’m very proud of myself for trying and eating (most of) the food here. It’s mostly carbs and veggies but so far I haven’t missed a meal.
After lunch our group split into 4 smaller groups and each went to different temples in Delhi. My group went to the Birla temple which was absolutely gorgeous. When we walked in there was a bollywood movie being filmed and of course us stupid Americans thought the actors were just enjoying the temple just as we were. We were quickly shooed (quite rudely) out of the set. Other than that, the temple itself was quite serene. The walls were adorned with brightly colored paintings different gods such as Kali, Durga, and Shiva. In one section excerpts from the Baghavad Gita were carved into the stone walls. We gave offerings and were blessed by a priest who later explained to me that everybody, no matter what religion, race, or gender, was welcomed into the temple.
After the temple we went to Humayun’s tomb which was absolutely stunning as well. Definitely the most beautiful structure I have ever seen in my life (thus far). It was HUGE and so detailed! It’s funny to think that such a big piece of architecture was just built for one guy. He must have been very loved…or very rich.
I’ve been spending a lot of time with Savita-ji, one of the Hindi teachers/student mentors. She is such a sweet woman and probably one of the friendliest people I have ever met. She took Austin and me to a nearby market to exchange some money which of course was an experience. We took a rickshaw there and I definitely saw my life flash before my eyes. I really don’t know how people can live in this city with this traffic. Apparently Delhi had the highest number of traffic deaths in the WORLD. I kiss the ground every time I get out of a car. Anyway, the market was about a 10 minute rickshaw ride away and I bought my first Indian scarf for about….$1.50. I love India. Everything is so beautiful and cheap here! Tomorrow we’re going shopping for Indian clothes to wear around the city so we’re not blatantly foreigners. I want to bring a suitcase of just scarves home!
When we got back I was locked out of my room so Savita-ji gave me some one-on-one Hindi lessons which were really helpful. I can already tell it’s going to be a struggle to learn this language. Tomorrow we have a quiz which I’m not too confident about…hopefully it will just get easier.
Day One
2/3/10
Well, I made it. I am currently staying in an ashram in Delhi. It’s so beautiful and peaceful. I woke up to the sounds of birds chirping (more like squawking I suppose) and children playing in the playground nearby. I met some fellow students at breakfast (which wasn’t too bad- some sort of chick pea thing and rice...and chai of course) and we explored the ashram a little bit. We took the elevator to the top floor and then climbed a ladder to the highest roof. From there we could see the sun through the fog/pollution and the moon was right across the sky. It kind of looked like Israel a bit but…India. It definitely doesn’t smell as bad as I was expecting, which is a good thing.
I just left the mediation center. I couldn’t really meditate because there are so many things on my mind right now. Everyone seems really down to earth and chill, which I guess you kind of have to be if you’re going to India on an arts program.
So here’s what happened last night on my way to the ashram from the airport….
I got off my plane and found my luggage and guide fine. I have to admit I was scared but I stayed cool, calm, and collected. My guide and I found a taxi and that’s when things started to get interesting…
Driving in India is like Florida, New York, and Israel all combined into one times a billion zillion. I have never been so scared in my life. I now know why they are all so religious here, you have to have a strong faith in SOMETHING to get though the traffic here. Apparently all the traffic lights and signs are irrelevant and I have yet to find a working seatbelt. All turning signals and any form of communication between cars are replaced with honks. There is never a two second interval that isn’t filled with a honk. One girl told me that if you do follow the traffic laws you are sure to be killed. I don’t know what traffic laws you could follow because there definitely are none. It’s every man for himself here. The roads are full of rickshaws, taxis, cars, trucks, bikes, cows, children performing tricks to get money, people selling useless crap such as tape on moustaches and bobble head dogs (in case you wanted to wear a moustache to work one day) trash, dogs, and women carrying around babies begging for change. It’s definitely a lot to take in, especially when they crowd around your car at every intersection scratching and knocking on your window.
I can’t wait until I’m finally settled in and in a routine. I hate the first couple of days, so uncomfortable and awkward.
9:50pm
So far no emotional breakdowns yet.
Today was our first day of Hindi class. Luckily I was pretty well versed so I wasn’t too embarrassed and could follow along swimmingly. Storm-ji (our academic advisor/teacher- she’s the big boss) taught us about Indian culture and the do’s and don’ts of everyday life such as don’t point the soles of your feet at anyone while sitting down (its like giving the middle finger), always eat with your left hand (your left is thought to be used for wiping yourself in the bathroom…yuck), and always stand up when an elder walks into the room.
Our Hindi instructor was pretty tough so I’m going to have to stay on top of things. I can’t wait until I can hold a conversation and fight with the rickshaw drivers in full Hindi.
We went out to dinner with one of the advisors, Arjun-ji, to a Punjabi restaurant. Since we didn’t know anything on the menu he ordered everything. Surprisingly everything tasted really good! I guess I do like Indian food after all. We asked Arjun-ji about himself and urban Indian life and got to know him pretty well. Apparently he used to be an amazing basketball player but had to retire because he got married (in an arranged marriage) and just had a baby girl two months ago. He said he definitely had no regrets because being a father to a little girl is the most fulfilling feeling he has ever experienced.
We drink chai constantly here! We have two chai breaks before noon and then even more after lunch and dinner. I’m not used to drinking so much caffeine so I’m shaking and anxious all the time but I can’t resist, it’s so good! I’m going to be so addicted when I get home, I can already tell.
The poverty here is unbelievable. It’s so sad. I knew it was bad in India but until its right in front of your eyes 24/7 it’s hard to really understand. We had a whole lecture today on how not to give to beggars in the streets because it just continues the cycle of begging which turns out to be quite lucrative. Everywhere we go there are eggers tapping on our window or tugging at my shirt. It’s so hard to say no to small children carrying drugged out babies but you can’t give to them all. Most the kids are addicted to glue and paint thinners and are so brain dead that it’s almost impossible to get them to function normally in society again. I guess it just shows how lucky I am and to embrace the life I have fully.
and so my adventure begins...
2/1/10
Well, this is it. I am currently on the plane to Chicago and then off to Delhi. Everything has gone smoothly today unlike yesterday. I was supposed to leave yesterday but my flight was canceled due to plane difficulties. Everything happens for a reason I suppose because it gave me extra time to get my typhoid medication, something I would definitely need in India.
I didn’t cry when I left Seattle. Am I weird? I just feel like I’ve been waiting for this for so long that my mind has already checked out. That and I have no fucking clue what to expect so it’s hard to know how I should feel.
I think I’m doing pretty well with keeping my cool. I feel really confident and comfortable right now and I’m just trying to take it all in. life really is minute by minute, day by day.
The attendant keeps telling me to buckle my seatbelt.. like it’s going to help much in case we crash. What a joke.
This flight is pretty empty and quiet, it’s nice. Smooth sailing…
7:00pm
I just arrived in Chicago and I’m currently waiting in the gate for my plane to Delhi. I am surrounded by Indians already! I just switched seats so I can observe them… hm, quiet people (so far). I wonder if they are thinking what the fuck is this little white girl going to Delhi for. I want to talk to an Indian girl next to me who looks about my age but she has her head phones in and I don’t even know what I would say… so how about those cows?
I’m so shy. That’s one thing I hope to overcome while being in India. It really restricts me in life. I need to branch out more. Strike conversations with random people. You never know who you’re sitting next to…
There is a Sikh couple staring at me. I wonder what they are thinking. I wonder what they were doing in Chicago. I wish I knew everybody’s story.
I hope I’m dressed ok. I’m wearing a white collared shirt, dark jeans, and sandals... I think I’m ok.
The pay phones aren’t working so I can’t call anyone and no one will help me try to figure the phone out. I hope this doesn’t become a common occurrence.
I’m not hungry but I feel like I should eat something before the plane ride. I’m starting to get butterflies…
10:06pm
On the plane to Delhi. Here’s the dinner menu:
Saag paneer with basmati rice
Black bean curry
Chai
…I guess I should start getting used to this.
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