Today was the first day of lecture. I rode a rickshaw by myself this morning which wasn’t too bad (I now consider myself a pro.) we had Hindi in the morning and then a lecture on “Rasa” afterwards. Lunch was incredible as usual, except I don’t know what the fuck I’m eating most of the time.
After lunch I went to my Mudabai painting class with four other of the girls on my program. It was so nice to just sit down, relax, and draw. The woman’s house was absolutely incredible, not to mention the woman herself! She painted on all of her walls and her house was full of color, everywhere you looked. She had a bunch of girls from small rural villages painting their own paintings upstairs. Apparently she gives free lessons to anyone who wants to learn how to paint in this specific style. She’s really an incredible woman and a talented painter as well. I hope I’m like her when I’m older.
Sunita-ji (my home stay mom) taught us how to make chapatti today at dinner. It was nice spending time with her and actually doing something. I think she’s warming up to me and Ayshea. Baby steps…
Lots of cows on the road today. Oh, and two camels!
I hear kids playing outside right now, its 11:00 at night! I’ve realized that America is so over-protective with children. Today I saw a couple on a motorcycle riding with their toddler on their lap, no seat-belt or helmet. Kids don’t go to bed at 7 or 8; they go to bed at 11 or 12. They are so independent. I see little kids walking to school by themselves crossing the most dangerous traffic in the world like it’s a field of daisies. The homeless children are especially independent. They walk around crowded markets or in-between cars rushing by on the road carrying new born babies or hauling around trash bags ten times their size. They are forced to become so old so early in life. I wish I could just scoop all of them up, put them in my pocket, and give them a warm meal and a roof to live under. A whole different world where they wouldn’t have to be sick or addicted to paint thinner. I really wish there was something I could do.
I guess just opening my eyes is a step in the right direction.
Thursday, February 18, 2010
Feb. 8th, 2010
2/8/10
I’m listening to the rain fall right now, my first Indian rain. Apparently it does rain other then the monsoon season. Sounds like Seattle…
Today half the students had problems with their visas so they had to go to some government building (which I heard was like the DMV but a million times worse, apparently they have stacks of just paper work to the ceiling and you can’t even imagine the people in there) so the other half of us decided to check out the Indian library. The library itself was beautiful and had books from what seemed like 800 BC! There was only one computer in the entire library and they were still using the catalogue system. It was so funny, at 1:00pm they announced it was “tea time” and everyone was ushered upstairs for chai… so Indian! Although I didn’t get much done (I wondered outside and got distracted by the ice cream cart) it was a cool experience.
I’m still not comfortable enough to walk around in the city by myself. The fact that I speak absolutely no Hindi except for “Namaste” combined with the fact that everyone else in the city speaks no English except for “hello” is a recipe for disaster, let a alone a very short conversation. Ayshea and I got lost coming home from school in the rickshaw and completely over-paid the driver. It’s hard not knowing the language or your surroundings. Our programs mantra is “patience, humor, and flexibility” which is what I keep telling myself every time I stat to stress. So far it seems to be working. We made it home ok in the end,
I hate bucket showers. I don’t care if they save water to make me realize how much I am using during one shower, I hate them. I would give anything for a long, hot shower right now. And a massage. Have I mentioned that beds in India typically consist of a sheet of plywood accompanied by a nice bag full of sand as a pillow? It’s quite luxurious… very nice right after a bucket shower.
Although I may be ranting a lot right now, there is no place I would rather be.
I’m listening to the rain fall right now, my first Indian rain. Apparently it does rain other then the monsoon season. Sounds like Seattle…
Today half the students had problems with their visas so they had to go to some government building (which I heard was like the DMV but a million times worse, apparently they have stacks of just paper work to the ceiling and you can’t even imagine the people in there) so the other half of us decided to check out the Indian library. The library itself was beautiful and had books from what seemed like 800 BC! There was only one computer in the entire library and they were still using the catalogue system. It was so funny, at 1:00pm they announced it was “tea time” and everyone was ushered upstairs for chai… so Indian! Although I didn’t get much done (I wondered outside and got distracted by the ice cream cart) it was a cool experience.
I’m still not comfortable enough to walk around in the city by myself. The fact that I speak absolutely no Hindi except for “Namaste” combined with the fact that everyone else in the city speaks no English except for “hello” is a recipe for disaster, let a alone a very short conversation. Ayshea and I got lost coming home from school in the rickshaw and completely over-paid the driver. It’s hard not knowing the language or your surroundings. Our programs mantra is “patience, humor, and flexibility” which is what I keep telling myself every time I stat to stress. So far it seems to be working. We made it home ok in the end,
I hate bucket showers. I don’t care if they save water to make me realize how much I am using during one shower, I hate them. I would give anything for a long, hot shower right now. And a massage. Have I mentioned that beds in India typically consist of a sheet of plywood accompanied by a nice bag full of sand as a pillow? It’s quite luxurious… very nice right after a bucket shower.
Although I may be ranting a lot right now, there is no place I would rather be.
Monday, February 15, 2010
Day Five
2/7/10
We moved in with out home stay family today. My roommate is Ayshea which I’m really excited about. She’s from Atlanta, Georgia but studies film at Ithaca College in NY. She’s super chill and laid back so I know we will get along just fine.
Were staying with a woman named Sunita. She’s a widow with one son who goes to school in Maryland. Her house is absolutely beautiful in a really nice neighborhood. She’s super sweet and an amazing painter which is great because I can use her as an advisor as well. She’s also an incredible cook. For dinner she made some sort of potato and mushroom dish, roti, and rice. I don’t even like mushrooms but I mopped it up pretty quick. Ayshea and I live on the 2nd floor in a bedroom with its own terrace. It’s a pretty nice set up. Unfortunately Sunita has a bucket shower so I’m just going to have to get used to it. No internet as well… I’m dying.
Although I’m really excited to be living with Sunita-ji, I’m kind of disappointed that I’m not living with a big family. I don’t know what I’m going to do with all the candy and Michael Jackson t-shirts I brought. Maybe I’ll meet some kids later on or Sunita-ji has some little nieces and nephews. Or ill just rock them back in the States.
The first day moving in was successfully awkward, just as all first days. So many quiet moments. Sunita speaks English pretty well but she’s shy about it and Ayshea and I know barely any Hindi so it’s hard to converse. Dinner was pretty quiet too. Ayshea and I are both quiet and kind of shy so that combined with the language barrier might be kind of rough. Hopefully it will get better and the house won’t be so quiet.
Tomorrow we’re going to some library, should be interesting. I should kick my butt in gear and start researching my ISP.
The neighbor is blasting some sort of bollywood music… oh India.
We moved in with out home stay family today. My roommate is Ayshea which I’m really excited about. She’s from Atlanta, Georgia but studies film at Ithaca College in NY. She’s super chill and laid back so I know we will get along just fine.
Were staying with a woman named Sunita. She’s a widow with one son who goes to school in Maryland. Her house is absolutely beautiful in a really nice neighborhood. She’s super sweet and an amazing painter which is great because I can use her as an advisor as well. She’s also an incredible cook. For dinner she made some sort of potato and mushroom dish, roti, and rice. I don’t even like mushrooms but I mopped it up pretty quick. Ayshea and I live on the 2nd floor in a bedroom with its own terrace. It’s a pretty nice set up. Unfortunately Sunita has a bucket shower so I’m just going to have to get used to it. No internet as well… I’m dying.
Although I’m really excited to be living with Sunita-ji, I’m kind of disappointed that I’m not living with a big family. I don’t know what I’m going to do with all the candy and Michael Jackson t-shirts I brought. Maybe I’ll meet some kids later on or Sunita-ji has some little nieces and nephews. Or ill just rock them back in the States.
The first day moving in was successfully awkward, just as all first days. So many quiet moments. Sunita speaks English pretty well but she’s shy about it and Ayshea and I know barely any Hindi so it’s hard to converse. Dinner was pretty quiet too. Ayshea and I are both quiet and kind of shy so that combined with the language barrier might be kind of rough. Hopefully it will get better and the house won’t be so quiet.
Tomorrow we’re going to some library, should be interesting. I should kick my butt in gear and start researching my ISP.
The neighbor is blasting some sort of bollywood music… oh India.
Day four
2/6/10
I can’t believe it’s already Saturday!
We leave for our home stay families tomorrow, I’m super nervous. I hope my family is close to the center. I hope they have kids too considering I brought gifts for children. At least I know I’m not going to be living alone. I wonder who my roommate will be. Considering I like everyone on the program I’m not too worried.
I decided on my independent study project today. I’m curious of how people illustrate enlightenment through art so I’m going to study Buddhist art schools and how they traditionally depict enlightenment and then meditate myself and paint what I see while I meditate. I don’t have too many details yet but at least I have a start.
I signed up for the painting practica today. I figure it goes hand in hand with my independent study project. Plus, I’m sure the woman in charge of the practica will be a great resource as to where to go to see actual Buddhist paintings and where to get cheap art supplies.
During the practica demonstrations there was a tabla and citar player which was utterly mind blowing. The citar player was so passionate and talented that I could feel his music vibrate through me. Both the musicians played off each other beautifully; it was as if the instruments were talking to each other.
I couldn’t even imagine being in Eugene right now. As much as I miss it every day here is so new and exciting. Everyday I’m here is truly a blessing.
I can’t believe it’s already Saturday!
We leave for our home stay families tomorrow, I’m super nervous. I hope my family is close to the center. I hope they have kids too considering I brought gifts for children. At least I know I’m not going to be living alone. I wonder who my roommate will be. Considering I like everyone on the program I’m not too worried.
I decided on my independent study project today. I’m curious of how people illustrate enlightenment through art so I’m going to study Buddhist art schools and how they traditionally depict enlightenment and then meditate myself and paint what I see while I meditate. I don’t have too many details yet but at least I have a start.
I signed up for the painting practica today. I figure it goes hand in hand with my independent study project. Plus, I’m sure the woman in charge of the practica will be a great resource as to where to go to see actual Buddhist paintings and where to get cheap art supplies.
During the practica demonstrations there was a tabla and citar player which was utterly mind blowing. The citar player was so passionate and talented that I could feel his music vibrate through me. Both the musicians played off each other beautifully; it was as if the instruments were talking to each other.
I couldn’t even imagine being in Eugene right now. As much as I miss it every day here is so new and exciting. Everyday I’m here is truly a blessing.
Day three
2/5/10
This morning I look a bucket shower which was quite interesting. I filled the bucket with warm water and used a little cup to pour it over me. Although I’m definitely never going to get used to the “bucket shower” idea, it makes me aware of how much water I use in a single shower. My hair alone needs its own bucket!
Delhi is starting to get to me. I can’t take the traffic, the poverty, the trash, the pollution, and honking, the smell. I don’t know how people can live here. Today I saw a child holding a baby with its hand severely burned off. They do this just to make others take pity on them and give them money. In the market I saw a legless man hobbling around begging for change and a woman holding a barely alive baby shoving it in my face. Children limp around with failing health and dirty bodies, many missing limbs, asking for money and it’s all they do. Every day. For the rest of their lives. It’s so sad, almost unbearable to see every day. When you see it in front of your face you turn your head but the mage stays with you. Those sad yellow eyes, the dirty fingers tapping on the window, the amputated arm trying to move. All I want to do is help.
We had a Hindi drop off today and bought Indian clothing. I know I’m not going to wear much of it when I get home so I was thinking of making some of the fabric into pillows.
I can hear honking all the way in the Ashram…
It’s so crazy here in Delhi. There’s no way I can stay here for my independent study project. I feel like I lose a year off my life every day I’m here with the stress of the traffic and the heartache of the poverty. It’s all so much to take in
This morning I look a bucket shower which was quite interesting. I filled the bucket with warm water and used a little cup to pour it over me. Although I’m definitely never going to get used to the “bucket shower” idea, it makes me aware of how much water I use in a single shower. My hair alone needs its own bucket!
Delhi is starting to get to me. I can’t take the traffic, the poverty, the trash, the pollution, and honking, the smell. I don’t know how people can live here. Today I saw a child holding a baby with its hand severely burned off. They do this just to make others take pity on them and give them money. In the market I saw a legless man hobbling around begging for change and a woman holding a barely alive baby shoving it in my face. Children limp around with failing health and dirty bodies, many missing limbs, asking for money and it’s all they do. Every day. For the rest of their lives. It’s so sad, almost unbearable to see every day. When you see it in front of your face you turn your head but the mage stays with you. Those sad yellow eyes, the dirty fingers tapping on the window, the amputated arm trying to move. All I want to do is help.
We had a Hindi drop off today and bought Indian clothing. I know I’m not going to wear much of it when I get home so I was thinking of making some of the fabric into pillows.
I can hear honking all the way in the Ashram…
It’s so crazy here in Delhi. There’s no way I can stay here for my independent study project. I feel like I lose a year off my life every day I’m here with the stress of the traffic and the heartache of the poverty. It’s all so much to take in
Day Two
2/4/10
The days seem to go by so fast here. I’ve only been here for two days and it feels like two weeks.
We didn’t have Hindi lessons today. Instead, we went to lunch at the little hole in the wall lunch canteen called Andhra Bhawan, it was so authentic that about 2/3rds of the group had to take 5 tablets of Pepto-Bismol. I’m very proud of myself for trying and eating (most of) the food here. It’s mostly carbs and veggies but so far I haven’t missed a meal.
After lunch our group split into 4 smaller groups and each went to different temples in Delhi. My group went to the Birla temple which was absolutely gorgeous. When we walked in there was a bollywood movie being filmed and of course us stupid Americans thought the actors were just enjoying the temple just as we were. We were quickly shooed (quite rudely) out of the set. Other than that, the temple itself was quite serene. The walls were adorned with brightly colored paintings different gods such as Kali, Durga, and Shiva. In one section excerpts from the Baghavad Gita were carved into the stone walls. We gave offerings and were blessed by a priest who later explained to me that everybody, no matter what religion, race, or gender, was welcomed into the temple.
After the temple we went to Humayun’s tomb which was absolutely stunning as well. Definitely the most beautiful structure I have ever seen in my life (thus far). It was HUGE and so detailed! It’s funny to think that such a big piece of architecture was just built for one guy. He must have been very loved…or very rich.
I’ve been spending a lot of time with Savita-ji, one of the Hindi teachers/student mentors. She is such a sweet woman and probably one of the friendliest people I have ever met. She took Austin and me to a nearby market to exchange some money which of course was an experience. We took a rickshaw there and I definitely saw my life flash before my eyes. I really don’t know how people can live in this city with this traffic. Apparently Delhi had the highest number of traffic deaths in the WORLD. I kiss the ground every time I get out of a car. Anyway, the market was about a 10 minute rickshaw ride away and I bought my first Indian scarf for about….$1.50. I love India. Everything is so beautiful and cheap here! Tomorrow we’re going shopping for Indian clothes to wear around the city so we’re not blatantly foreigners. I want to bring a suitcase of just scarves home!
When we got back I was locked out of my room so Savita-ji gave me some one-on-one Hindi lessons which were really helpful. I can already tell it’s going to be a struggle to learn this language. Tomorrow we have a quiz which I’m not too confident about…hopefully it will just get easier.
The days seem to go by so fast here. I’ve only been here for two days and it feels like two weeks.
We didn’t have Hindi lessons today. Instead, we went to lunch at the little hole in the wall lunch canteen called Andhra Bhawan, it was so authentic that about 2/3rds of the group had to take 5 tablets of Pepto-Bismol. I’m very proud of myself for trying and eating (most of) the food here. It’s mostly carbs and veggies but so far I haven’t missed a meal.
After lunch our group split into 4 smaller groups and each went to different temples in Delhi. My group went to the Birla temple which was absolutely gorgeous. When we walked in there was a bollywood movie being filmed and of course us stupid Americans thought the actors were just enjoying the temple just as we were. We were quickly shooed (quite rudely) out of the set. Other than that, the temple itself was quite serene. The walls were adorned with brightly colored paintings different gods such as Kali, Durga, and Shiva. In one section excerpts from the Baghavad Gita were carved into the stone walls. We gave offerings and were blessed by a priest who later explained to me that everybody, no matter what religion, race, or gender, was welcomed into the temple.
After the temple we went to Humayun’s tomb which was absolutely stunning as well. Definitely the most beautiful structure I have ever seen in my life (thus far). It was HUGE and so detailed! It’s funny to think that such a big piece of architecture was just built for one guy. He must have been very loved…or very rich.
I’ve been spending a lot of time with Savita-ji, one of the Hindi teachers/student mentors. She is such a sweet woman and probably one of the friendliest people I have ever met. She took Austin and me to a nearby market to exchange some money which of course was an experience. We took a rickshaw there and I definitely saw my life flash before my eyes. I really don’t know how people can live in this city with this traffic. Apparently Delhi had the highest number of traffic deaths in the WORLD. I kiss the ground every time I get out of a car. Anyway, the market was about a 10 minute rickshaw ride away and I bought my first Indian scarf for about….$1.50. I love India. Everything is so beautiful and cheap here! Tomorrow we’re going shopping for Indian clothes to wear around the city so we’re not blatantly foreigners. I want to bring a suitcase of just scarves home!
When we got back I was locked out of my room so Savita-ji gave me some one-on-one Hindi lessons which were really helpful. I can already tell it’s going to be a struggle to learn this language. Tomorrow we have a quiz which I’m not too confident about…hopefully it will just get easier.
Day One
2/3/10
Well, I made it. I am currently staying in an ashram in Delhi. It’s so beautiful and peaceful. I woke up to the sounds of birds chirping (more like squawking I suppose) and children playing in the playground nearby. I met some fellow students at breakfast (which wasn’t too bad- some sort of chick pea thing and rice...and chai of course) and we explored the ashram a little bit. We took the elevator to the top floor and then climbed a ladder to the highest roof. From there we could see the sun through the fog/pollution and the moon was right across the sky. It kind of looked like Israel a bit but…India. It definitely doesn’t smell as bad as I was expecting, which is a good thing.
I just left the mediation center. I couldn’t really meditate because there are so many things on my mind right now. Everyone seems really down to earth and chill, which I guess you kind of have to be if you’re going to India on an arts program.
So here’s what happened last night on my way to the ashram from the airport….
I got off my plane and found my luggage and guide fine. I have to admit I was scared but I stayed cool, calm, and collected. My guide and I found a taxi and that’s when things started to get interesting…
Driving in India is like Florida, New York, and Israel all combined into one times a billion zillion. I have never been so scared in my life. I now know why they are all so religious here, you have to have a strong faith in SOMETHING to get though the traffic here. Apparently all the traffic lights and signs are irrelevant and I have yet to find a working seatbelt. All turning signals and any form of communication between cars are replaced with honks. There is never a two second interval that isn’t filled with a honk. One girl told me that if you do follow the traffic laws you are sure to be killed. I don’t know what traffic laws you could follow because there definitely are none. It’s every man for himself here. The roads are full of rickshaws, taxis, cars, trucks, bikes, cows, children performing tricks to get money, people selling useless crap such as tape on moustaches and bobble head dogs (in case you wanted to wear a moustache to work one day) trash, dogs, and women carrying around babies begging for change. It’s definitely a lot to take in, especially when they crowd around your car at every intersection scratching and knocking on your window.
I can’t wait until I’m finally settled in and in a routine. I hate the first couple of days, so uncomfortable and awkward.
9:50pm
So far no emotional breakdowns yet.
Today was our first day of Hindi class. Luckily I was pretty well versed so I wasn’t too embarrassed and could follow along swimmingly. Storm-ji (our academic advisor/teacher- she’s the big boss) taught us about Indian culture and the do’s and don’ts of everyday life such as don’t point the soles of your feet at anyone while sitting down (its like giving the middle finger), always eat with your left hand (your left is thought to be used for wiping yourself in the bathroom…yuck), and always stand up when an elder walks into the room.
Our Hindi instructor was pretty tough so I’m going to have to stay on top of things. I can’t wait until I can hold a conversation and fight with the rickshaw drivers in full Hindi.
We went out to dinner with one of the advisors, Arjun-ji, to a Punjabi restaurant. Since we didn’t know anything on the menu he ordered everything. Surprisingly everything tasted really good! I guess I do like Indian food after all. We asked Arjun-ji about himself and urban Indian life and got to know him pretty well. Apparently he used to be an amazing basketball player but had to retire because he got married (in an arranged marriage) and just had a baby girl two months ago. He said he definitely had no regrets because being a father to a little girl is the most fulfilling feeling he has ever experienced.
We drink chai constantly here! We have two chai breaks before noon and then even more after lunch and dinner. I’m not used to drinking so much caffeine so I’m shaking and anxious all the time but I can’t resist, it’s so good! I’m going to be so addicted when I get home, I can already tell.
The poverty here is unbelievable. It’s so sad. I knew it was bad in India but until its right in front of your eyes 24/7 it’s hard to really understand. We had a whole lecture today on how not to give to beggars in the streets because it just continues the cycle of begging which turns out to be quite lucrative. Everywhere we go there are eggers tapping on our window or tugging at my shirt. It’s so hard to say no to small children carrying drugged out babies but you can’t give to them all. Most the kids are addicted to glue and paint thinners and are so brain dead that it’s almost impossible to get them to function normally in society again. I guess it just shows how lucky I am and to embrace the life I have fully.
and so my adventure begins...
2/1/10
Well, this is it. I am currently on the plane to Chicago and then off to Delhi. Everything has gone smoothly today unlike yesterday. I was supposed to leave yesterday but my flight was canceled due to plane difficulties. Everything happens for a reason I suppose because it gave me extra time to get my typhoid medication, something I would definitely need in India.
I didn’t cry when I left Seattle. Am I weird? I just feel like I’ve been waiting for this for so long that my mind has already checked out. That and I have no fucking clue what to expect so it’s hard to know how I should feel.
I think I’m doing pretty well with keeping my cool. I feel really confident and comfortable right now and I’m just trying to take it all in. life really is minute by minute, day by day.
The attendant keeps telling me to buckle my seatbelt.. like it’s going to help much in case we crash. What a joke.
This flight is pretty empty and quiet, it’s nice. Smooth sailing…
7:00pm
I just arrived in Chicago and I’m currently waiting in the gate for my plane to Delhi. I am surrounded by Indians already! I just switched seats so I can observe them… hm, quiet people (so far). I wonder if they are thinking what the fuck is this little white girl going to Delhi for. I want to talk to an Indian girl next to me who looks about my age but she has her head phones in and I don’t even know what I would say… so how about those cows?
I’m so shy. That’s one thing I hope to overcome while being in India. It really restricts me in life. I need to branch out more. Strike conversations with random people. You never know who you’re sitting next to…
There is a Sikh couple staring at me. I wonder what they are thinking. I wonder what they were doing in Chicago. I wish I knew everybody’s story.
I hope I’m dressed ok. I’m wearing a white collared shirt, dark jeans, and sandals... I think I’m ok.
The pay phones aren’t working so I can’t call anyone and no one will help me try to figure the phone out. I hope this doesn’t become a common occurrence.
I’m not hungry but I feel like I should eat something before the plane ride. I’m starting to get butterflies…
10:06pm
On the plane to Delhi. Here’s the dinner menu:
Saag paneer with basmati rice
Black bean curry
Chai
…I guess I should start getting used to this.
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